Had some fun again today out on the lake, flat calm and zero current…the conditions called for heading back out once again to see what kind of data we could pull on additional tests with copper depths, and pulling some depth data on wire divers.

The big question in our minds coming out of the first round of copper testing done with a spoon, was what would happen when we pulled a flasher around.    We went with the old standby 8″ Dreamweaver Spin Doctor first on the 300′ copper…no change in depth.    We upped the ante next and threw out an 11″ Dreamweaver Paddle and we had some action.    The 300′ 45lb Copper rig rose to a steady running depth of 48′ down with the 11″ paddle pulled behind it.   Very interesting, but not surprising to us.

With that out of the way, we started to work on the wire divers.   Probably of more interest to us personally than the copper, is where exactly are our wire divers?    Because we have “control” over incremental changes in “line out” on wire compared to just throwing a couple hundred feet of copper in the water, we were VERY  interested to see where we have been getting all of our action from the past decade since moving over to wire.

We are standard divers on 3 for the “high” divers and deeper divers on 1.5 for the “low” divers on our boats…so that is what we went with.   2.5 gps speed and a Stinger Stingray started off the testing.

Very smooth and consistent readings all the way down on the low diver, and then again on the high diver.   We were really surprised to see how small of change in running depth 10′ of line makes, but again, it is only ten feet of line.

Of course, we found out that our gear is MUCH higher than we thought it was (for our “high” divers anyway), but to us it does not matter, we still catch fish on our diver sets and have no intention of changing them now that we know how deep they really are.

10″ Dreamweaver Spin doctor went out on the low diver after we completed the spoon cycle, and ran tightly within a 2-3′ margin of the spoon all the way out to 300′ of wire.   We expected more lift, but did not get it.

We did not have time for paddle testing on the divers, but if it’s anything like what happened to the coppers then we can expect quite a difference…or maybe not.

We do know one thing for sure, current will play an absolutely monster role in diver depths, and we can state this with a very high degree of confidence.   Just this past monday (Memorial Day) we were in 88 feet of water dragging our “high” divers (standard divers)  on the bottom with approx 275 of wire out.   Based upon the “no current” chart below, we see that the attained depth for that amount of wire was only 69′, so what gives?

We would also note that our deeper divers were almost spot on this past monday in relation to this chart, maybe just a couple of feet short, when trolling into the current.

We have known for years by fishing our gear on the bottom for trout, both riggers and divers, that depending on the direction of travel and orientation in the current, you could experience significant changes in running depths.   At least for divers and riggers.    You can be trolling one direction with your gear out X feet, and then turn around and have to let out 100 more feet of wire just to touch bottom again.

To our example of this past Monday, we were trolling into the current at 2.6 mph and ticking bottom with our high diver out approx 275′.   We did not swing around and go the opposite direction that time, but had we done so, we probably would have been looking at 350+ to get the same bottom depth.

We believe wire divers will probably have the most variability in running depths than any other gear, in relation to the current, as compared to copper or leadcore.     So, these numbers below are just a reference with no current influence.

We also believe that because of the nature of wire divers and how effected they are by currents, that once they are deployed “into” the underwater current band, they will tend to stay in it, regardless of how much more line is let out.   Time will tell with this theory.

We spent some good time out on the water today dragging everything around at 2.0 gps speed.    Not alot of time for analyses right now, other than the claims by those who drag up zebra mussels in 80 feet of water with a 300 copper still have some explaining to do..

Once we get to plotting this out in the next day or so it will become much more clear.    General observations are that the 45lb performs really well at this slower speed, and 60lb still has an advantage, though a smaller one than at the 2.5 gps speed.   32lb still runs within 5 feet of depth of 45lb all the way out to 600′ of copper.

Based upon feedback, it sounds like 90% of fishermen are trolling in the 2.3 gps neighborhood on average, so you really need to imagine the numbers between the numbers we have presented.   That is where you should be, minus current.    Given that, combined with erratic driving skills by most helmsmen particularly in heavy traffic, offers good insight as to why gear ends up on the bottom pretty quickly and claims of zebra mussels begin to resonate.

X denotes no measurements were taken.   We did some small increment measurements on the 32lb as it will dive the same as the Walleye Copper at this speed, and that is who those increments are for.

Full blown analyses with charting will be posted up over on the Pro Tip side of the house once we get some feedback from our Pro Staff to share observations or disbelief.

To download the pdf version of our Walleye Copper™ depth charts and reel fill data, click here.

Trying to cover a broad range of trolling speeds for walleye anglers is a tough challenge.    There are the “slow” guys who bottom bounce with crawler harnesses at 1.0-1.5 gps speed.    There are the “mid range” guys that can’t decide if they want to be a slow guy or a fast guy..1.8 to 2.2 gps speed guys.   Mix here on crawlers, spoons and stickbaits.

Then there are the “fast” guys at 2.6 gps + and are exclusively spoons and stickbait guys, often fishing over much deeper water as well.  ”Fast” guys are trying to eliminate junk fish like silver bass and sheephead, and trolling fast certainly does that.   It also allows for the ability to cover much more water, and to determine your exact trolling angle and speed that produces the most action.

Slow guys and mid guys, particularly slow guys, have a real hard time dictating actual lure depth and trolling angle because they get out maneuvered by current, wind and waves which makes things a little tougher.   It makes the finesse part of the presentation all the more important.

In the end game, Walleye Copper™ is a high probability producer on all fronts.    For fast guys, you dictate your actual running depths regardless of current because you are trolling faster than the current.    At these speeds, whichever direction you go, you know your gear is going to be at X depth.     Slow guys really benefit from less line out to reach super deep depths, without having to mess with bottom bouncers.    Super sensitive bite transmission up the copper wire is another added bonus.

The mid range guys can continue to bounce back and forth between whichever presentation they think will be hot for that day.    Micro adjustments of just a tenth or two mile an hour can make dramatic changes in running depths of copper wire.    This is perfect for working small portions of bottom structure by allowing trollers to speed up and “lift” their gear over potential snags and then quickly drop them right back into a trough by slowing down.   That is where the big boys will be found!

All depth data were pulled using “no drag” baits such as crawler harnesses and small Silver Streak walleye spoons.   No current was present during time of testing.

In addition to pulling “no drag” lures for depth data for Walleye Copper™, we spent some time dragging around a variety of Reef Runner stickbaits at 2.0 gps speed to see where they might run.    Very interesting results indeed!   We left the “spoon” depth column in for reference.

As you can see, the Walleye Copper™ really ends up dictating where these baits will run.    Here is how we rigged our Reef Runner test rods.

Copper (of course) tied to 20′ of Blood Run 20lb “Top Shelf” Fluorocarbon leader, depth probe, 5′ of Blood Run 20lb Top Shelf Fluoro leader, small swivel and then the Reef.

550′ 60lb Copper on a Penn Senator 15L

The dog days of June are upon us, and staring back at our spread waiting for something exciting to happen is the word!  Lots of playing  around with new 60lb copper™ setups, new lines being tested for 2014 and working with different planer boards and divers.    Our heads are pretty scrambled personally on integrating the new 60lb copper™ setups into our existing programs.   We have had a few standby copper segments in 32lb and particularly 45lb that have been not-so-standby over the past few seasons and they have been begging to be replaced by some new 60lb.

Being at the top of the copper game, Blood Run pro staff spend a ton of time pulling a ton of copper around, and it is fairly easy to state based upon their observations, that not every copper segment works just because it is swimming at a particular depth.   We hear it all the time..”I can’t get my 250 to go, but everyone else does” and similar.

The big thing to remember is your speed is never going to be the same as someone else’s.   Just because your buddy can’t keep his 250 in the water doesn’t mean you can’t try and duplicate its success with a 300′ …at a higher speed.  But like anything in the trolling game, you have to be committed to a program and by and large stick with it.    If you spend the time to dial in all of your coppers and wire divers, they should ALWAYS be productive whenever there are fish around.   You might have to tweak a bait or two, but even that is a stretch.

Certain lures work better on certain copper segments at certain speeds…this is undeniable fact.   We aren’t going to spend alot of time rolling down our list, as everyone who fishes copper enough knows what we are talking about here.    But spend the time and dial it in, and glue the swivel shut once you figure out the baits that work best at your speed on your different copper setups.   That’s right, you should always put the same lure on the same copper segment and walk away from it.    Don’t ever change it.   Some days it will go, some days it might not.   But if you can establish a pattern of success with a certain bait in a variety of conditions, then you have a winner.    We personally live by this philosophy and it has never ever failed us.    Even on opposite sides of the lake, fishing different ports, in different times of the season.

Personally we troll pretty fast, so the 60lb is appealing to us because it will allow us to fish deeper than we previously could, at our preferred higher speeds.   We have to now go through the process of figuring out what segments are the best, with what lures.    We also need to figure out what other setups of 45lb and 32lb are going to be mothballed because of lack of production.    The next couple of months will be interesting and exciting no doubt!

With that said, we have good action going now on our 550′ 60lb copper™ setup.    We tried the Solterra 50L from Okuma and it worked well, but we found after significant testing that the Penn Senator 15L conventional reel is a much better setup.   Price more effectively, and extremely smooth on the payout and retrieve…it was hard to resist.   How could you resist it?  It is the same reel that Jaws was caught on in the movie….click, click, click!

The next challenge was to find the right planer board to pull this beast around.   Obviously this super deep rig is going to have a flasher on it, in our case a Dreamweaver Spin Doctor, so the extra drag would be a concern.

Lately we have been playing around with some of the original Ziggy Boards from Sheboygan (green ones…not the orange ones called Z board) and have been super impressed…even on our short coppers.    We have always been fans of the Church Walleye and Offshore SST boards on our short coppers, but both could not compare to the Ziggy.   The Walleye boards have been the worst performers, particularly with flashers and any kind of current or wave action.     We never knew how far back they would drag until we ran a Ziggy board next to them.   WOW!   The Ziggy’s run far up, where we like them, instead of far back…over our wire divers.

So we put the 550′ 60lb copper™ out with a 10″ Spin Doctor, and ran it inside of a 250′ 45lb copper with a 8″ paddle, and to the furthest outside a 150′ 32lb copper with a spoon.    The picture says it all!   The Ziggy board pulled the massive 60lb rig with a 10″ Spin Doctor up as far and inline with the 32lb spoon on a Walleye board.     Pictured waaaay back was the 250′ 45lb copper on the Walleye board with an 8″ paddle style flasher.

These are very impressive results!    The Ziggy Boards are hard to find, we are trying to get some more ourselves.    But having proved themselves several times this year in very rough seas, and long heavy coppers…they are quickly winning over our favor.

We did run another test with a 300′ 60lb copper™ with a Spin Doctor behind a Church TX-44…and as expected it ran right up inline with the Ziggy. The TX-44 is an awesome board as well, the only drawback has been a tendency to dive when a fish hits on occasion…we don’t know why because it happens randomly.   But in any case, it does do the trick with the 60lb copper™ and is slightly larger in size than the Ziggy board.

Stay tuned for more testing, feedback and analyses on our new setups as we get into king season!

It was 3 yards and a cloud of dust, about every 10 seconds, for 6 hours straight.    The game was in Saginaw Bay in 12-14′ of water off the Crib.    The trolling angles changed several times as the wind was ripping out of the Southwest, but the copper game was on.

5 rods per side deployed off planer ski’s (the BIG boards).   We ran a diver and downrigger as well on each side just to keep them honest.   They each had a lot of action as well, but it was the copper all day long getting whacked.

Silver Streak Walleye Spoons

The baits are pretty standard over here on Saginaw Bay.   If you aren’t pulling walleye spoons, you aren’t having the action that we were.     Sure you can drift with crawler harnesses as we saw several guys doing this day, but as we flew by at 3.2 gps speed over ground with 4 fish on at a time, it was pretty obvious as to which team was going to win.

Over 100 walleyes were landed, 30% of them were shorts, but that is okay.    It is great to see the Saginaw Bay fishery with several year classes of fish knowing that it will be the walleye mecca for years to come.

We started off with each of the 10 reels rigged with 30′ of copper and then the remainder of the reels just filled up with Blood Run Hi Vis Copper Backer Line.    10′ of 20lb Blood Run Fluorocarbon Leader tipped off each of the copper segments.  Walleye spoons on every rod, most of them with copper colored backs.

We deployed all of the copper line and snapped the backer to a release with a rubber band half hitch and sent them down the tether towards the big ski planer board.    We staggered them about 8 feet up from each other,  giving each enough room to slide out of the spread once we hooked up.

5 rod spread per side

It was pretty much non stop from there, 2 on, 3 on, up to 6 fish on at a time.   It is pretty easy to tell when a walleye smacks a copper rod, it will break the rubber band and away she goes.

About half way through the trip, the bite slowed to a pick, and we decided to let out another 20 feet of backer line on our copper rigs as shown on our line counters, and it was game on again!   The extra foot or two of depth picked up by slipping the copper further back was what they wanted later in the morning, and we gave it to them.

As we continued to pound on the fish, we quickly realized that in order to boat that many fish that fast, there was no way you could pull this off with a jet diver program or certainly not a drop weight program.    Resetting divers, and removing and replacing snap weights would be an unbelievable hassle and produce alot of tangles.    The quick in and out deployment of the short copper segments was about as efficient and effective as you could be fishing a fast and furious program such as this.

If you are looking to catch more walleyes, and fast, there is a simple way to do it.   Leave the crawler harnesses at home, crank up your trolling motor, send a couple copper segments out on each side of the boat on inline planer board or big ski boards and hang on.   And don’t forget your copper-colored spoons either..

‘Tis the season in Michigan, Ontario and New York State for battling big kings on the river!   There are certainly different keys to success when it comes to getting pre-spawn kings to strike.  One of the most effective presentation methods is drifting skein under floats in deep holes.

We tend to become fixated on spawning fish that are rolling and jumping, but as we all know, getting those fish to strike is akin to pulling teeth.   Subtle float presentations with both cured and uncured skein and spawn can and will produce good numbers of fish.

There are a number of options available for line types, most go by preference of the angler.   Our new Floating Mono  was specifically designed for taking hook jawed big kings.   The line comes in a variety of visible colors, and in a single weight class of 16lb test.   Our Pro Staff and customer’s preferred going with the stronger rated line in order to muscle big kings to the boat or shore and away from obstacles and other anglers.

The line has unique buoyancy properties which keep it completely afloat throughout significantly long drifts.   Unlike traditional mono line, our new floating mono does not absorb water, and is manufactured by mixing special line conditioners to maintain buoyancy and flexibility under cold weather conditions.

Our re-designed float leader material, made of the world’s first true “stretchable” fluorocarbon resins once hardened, give the steelhead and salmon float angler more flexibility in performance.    The stretch properties allow for powerful hooksets with forgiveness, particularly if you chose to use a braided mainline.

The super softness of this true 100% fluorocarbon leader allows for a more natural presentation allowing for a “roll” and “bounce” of jigs and skein, rather than a “pop” and “hop” dictated by a standard stiff style fluorocarbon leader.    This softer natural presentation puts your offerings in more of a natural setting as they roll down the river bouncing off bottom structure such as rocks and logs.

We will be featuring some more in depth presentations and rigging methods vis a vis our Pro Staff in future articles and newsletters.    So stay tuned and get rigged for the tail end of the salmon run and the impending waves of steelhead heading towards our rivers this fall.

There is a lot of mystery and closely held secrets around getting pre spawning kings to bite on a consistent basis.    While around for years, a relatively unused tactic in many locales now being adopted by savvy anglers is float fishing for salmon.

In a nutshell, you are rigging up cured, fresh or artificial spawn to float downstream under a plastic float similar to how you might target steelhead.

We have spent a lot of time working with a number our our Pro Staff members who are aficionado’s when it comes to float fishing in general, and got a great look and helpful insight into taking big kings under a float.

For the most part, if you have good access to fresh skein, that is without a doubt the bait of choice.   We have experimented with artificial egg clusters as well with good success.

The setup is pretty simple, take a stiffer style float rod and put on your reel of choice.   Reel selection can range from spinning outfits, baitcasters such as the Shimano Corvalus 400, and others even use Centerpin reels.   There are advantages to each of those choices, most comes down to personal preference.

You can also go a couple of different ways on mainlines.   Some do prefer a 30lb braid mainline, while others like to go with the stretch and shock absorption of our new floating mono.

Either way you are going to leader down to 15lb fluorocarbon float leader material, put on some splitshot or inline weights, and tie down to a 15lb or 10lb egg loop drop to your hook.

There are a number of hook options as well, most guys are doing something along the lines of a #1 or #2 Octopus style hook with a strong offset shank for the egg loop knot.

When rigging up your bait, there are two primary options.   First, chunk cured skein wrapped into your egg loop is going to be an obvious choice.   It is quick, easy (and messy!) but always a great place to start.   Another option is to take a skein chunk and wrap it into a spawn sac to create a golfball size hunk of skein.

For some reason, as noted by Pro Staff, the round compact shape sometimes seems to hold scent better and longer, and gives the option of wrapping in different colored netting to add some flair.   Chartreuse and Pink sac material get the nod here.

It is important to note that when fishing cured skein or roe, you have to keep it fresh and “juiced up” with scent to keep it appealing to wary kings.    The thought behind taking these pre-spawn fish, though not actively feeding, is that kings trigger on protein based scents that their bodies crave in order to keep them nutritioned enough to last throughout the run up to the spawning grounds.  Though not triggered by hunger, a forced intake of protein in the form of skein proves to be the ticket to getting these fish to hit.

This is not a “lining” event where you feel your mainline run through the mouth of a fish and heave your way into a snagged fish.   These kings are actually inhaling these chunks to quickly digest to get that protein their bodies need.    Krill based scents in both cures and artificial egg clusters seem to entice more than other scents.

Working deep holes not covered up with rolling fish is the place to be when targeting these fish.   You can pound on them all you want up where they are spawning, but you will rarely get them to go.    Where you don’t see them, in shady deep holes and runs, is where you will have the best action.

Below are a couple of video’s run on a quick drift trip with Pro Staff Capt Kyle Buck of Great Lakes Guide Service.   Kyle is also a Pautzke Pro Staff member, and is heavy on the Fire Brine during this segment, and it definitely paid off.

The first clip walks a first time float angler through working a hole properly, mending techniques and other tips.

The second clip shows a quick look a the cured chunk skein wrapped in spawn  sac netting.

The third clip was taken literally on the second drift after the intro, where a big hen drops the hammer on the float!

Pro Staff Kyle McClelland with XXL Chrome chasing spends the majority of his time float fishing for steelhead, and this season a huge percentage of that time has been fishing beads.

Bead fishing is not a new tactic by any means, but certainly is a tactic becoming more widely accepted by Midwest/New England steelheader’s, particularly this season.

Around the last week of October, our phones started blowing up from Pro Staffer’s in Northern Michigan who were getting their first crack at this seasons Chrome.   And the majority of that action was on beads.   Why are bead’s so effective, at particular times of the year?   Pretty simple actually, they look just like single loose eggs rolling down from spawning salmon.

Here is a quick excerpt on rigging up beads from Kyle, not much to it…and a lot easier than messing with bags.  A great place to purchase beads is troutbeads.com

In the past couple weeks, float fishing beads have been our top producing method while targeting fall steelhead! I’ve been asked many questions about how I fish beads lately, so I figured I would give a quick run down on how I fish them!

My favorite method to use while fishing beads is float fishing. While I’m fishing beads, I’ll simply use the same float fishing set up and shot pattern that I’d use for float fishing spawn bags. First off, you will want to get equipped with a good quality spinning rod/reel combination or a center pin combination. Then you’ll want to add a good float fishing line to your set-up. My favorite float fishing line is Blood run’s high-vis float fishing line. A good float fishing line is key to getting a good effective drift and a natural presentation, especially during the winter months when the fish are rather lethargic due to the cold temperatures.

Once you’ve added a good float fishing line to your reel, you’ll then want to apply a float. If I’m fishing slow moving water, then I’ll use a 8-11g Cleardrift float. If I’m fishing fast moving water, then I’ll use a 11-15g float.

Now you will want to tie a small black barrel swivel to your float fishing line below your float. Once you’ve done this, you’ll want to add a leader. I’ll generally like to adjust the length of my leader to the depth of the hole that I’m fishing, so the high-vis float fishing line isn’t in sight of the fish. This can make a big difference, especially when the water is low and clear. If I’m fishing a hole that is 5′ deep, then I’ll generally use a 4-5ft leader.

During the fall and spring months, or if I’m fishing stained water, my favorite leader material is Blood run’s 8lb fluorocarbon leader line. During the winter months when the water is generally low and clear, and the fish are rather lethargic, I’ll drop down to a 4-6lb fluorocarbon leader.

After you’ve added your leader, it’s time to apply your hook and bead. First, you’ll want to slide the bead on your leader line. Then you’ll add your hook. My favorite hooks to run with beads (and spawn bags) are size 8-12 Mustad nymph hooks. Once you’ve added your hook, you’ll then want to snug your bead about 1-2″ above your hook with a tooth pick. You’ll simply just shove a tooth pick through the hole on your bead and then trim the ends of your tooth pick off. 

Now it’s time to add your shot pattern (or weight) to your line. If I’m fishing a slow moving hole with a 8-11g Cleardrift float, then I’ll use a fairly light shot pattern that consists of small black bb shot. I’ll only use small black bb shot for any shot pattern that I use, as they blend in with the water ,and play a huge role in a stealth presentation. I’ll put my first split shot directly below my float, and then I’ll spread them out by about 10″ apart all the way from my float to my bead.

If I’m fishing a hole that is fairly fast moving, with a 11-15g Cleardrift float, then I’ll use a heavier shot pattern. I’ll generally use a 3,3,2,2,1,1 tapered shot pattern, and will spread them about 10″ apart from each other from my float to my bead. I’ll put the first three directly below my float, the next three about 10″ below the previous, and so on and so forth. You can then adjust that shot pattern according to the depth of the hole your fishing. 

Throughout the year, many different bead colors will produce. During the early fall months, my favorite colors are red and orange. Mid-fall, my favorite colors are peach and white. Once late-fall rolls around, white and chartreuse colored beads seem to be my top producing colors.

Beads are defiantly one of my top producing baits throughout the year! 

We are proud to announce version 1.0 of our new Android based application for your Android Device!    Our new app allows users to quickly reference dive chart data for all of our copper products, as well as other useful information and tips in using our products.

Visit the Google Play Store to download the latest version of the app!

Mother Nature is playing kindly this year and it looks like we are going to be solid across the Ice Belt this winter!   Quite a bit of pent up energy over the past few seasons from us Michigan guys, and alot of out of town travel to find good ice and good fishing has been the norm.  With that said, we are weaving in the 2014 Winter show season, Pro Staff seminars, and new product testing into what looks to be a busy season on the Ice and on the tradeshow circuit.

Trophy brown trout caught through the ice on Saginaw Bay with Blood Run Tackle’s Cadence™ Ice Leader.

We will be attending the Novi Ultimate Fishing Show January 9 -12, sharing space with our friends at the Sportsmen’s Direct booth.   Pro Staff Kyle Buck with Great Lakes Guide Service will be doing two seminars, Friday the 10th at 1:30 on Copper/Planer Boards for salmon, and Saturday the 11th at Noon for river fishermen covering bait curing and prep for Salmon & Steelhead.

We will have our Ice, Walleye and some of our Salmon and Steelhead products for sale at the show in the Sportsmen’s Direct booth.   Pro Staff Ross Robertson of Bigwater Fishing will also be floating around, talking Ice and Walleye fishing with Blood Run products.

Throughout the winter season, we will be sponsoring Mull & Keating Super Salmon Clinics, offering discount coupons for Blood Run product redemptions to all participants.   Dave & Dan will be at the LOTSA/Niagara Show, Lake Michigan Angler Show, Birch Run and a Southwest Michigan show date as well.   Check out their event page for more details and topics!

Late January will find us at the Greater Niagara Fishing Expo with the LOTSA group again this year, with HUGE discounts on all of our products.   We will have Ice, Walleye, Steelhead and Salmon products available at this event.   Pro Staffer’s Paul Czarnecki, Brian Garrett, Rob Wescott will be on hand along with special guest appearances (possibly) by the Walleye Man Capt Dan Kelly of Buckets Charters from Pennsylvania, Ross Robertson and members of our Canadian Pro Staff team to talk smack on Ice, Walleye and Salmon tactics.

Mid-February will find Blood Run Tackle Pro Staffers Capt Josh Keeran and Kyle Wogsland at the new Sheboygan Fishing Show Feb 15-16th at the Blue Harbor Resort.  Russell and the crew at Anglers Avenue are putting on the show featuring top vendors from around the Great Lakes, along with presentations from numerous top notch tournament fishermen.   We will have all of our Salmon product on sale up at the show, including the Purple Smoke Tournament Downrigger Mono and Sea Flee™ products.

Capt Brian Garrett with a 30lb Lake Ontario King caught on Blood Run 30lb Stainless.

March 20-23 we will be at the grand daddy of them all, the Grand Rapids Ultimate Sport Show. Come down and visit us again at the Outdoorsmen Pro Shop booth with numerous Pro Staffers in attendance throughout the weekend including Capt Kyle Buck – Great Lakes Guide Service, Capt Josh Keeran – First In, Capt Glen Buehner – Ludington Charter Service, Capt Brian Butts – Sea Flea Charters…and many others.   Capt Kyle Buck will again be presenting seminar topics at the show, check show scheduling for details.    Fantastic show pricing as usual from Nate & Grayson at the Outdoorsmen on all Blood Run Tackle Steelhead, Salmon, Ice and Walleye products.

Check out our facebook page for periodic announcements on Blood Run Pro Staffer’s who will be presenting at numerous seminars throughout the winter season.   Capt Glenn – Ludington Charter Service will be doing Bass Pro again in the Detroit area, Capt Ross Robertson will have a number of Ice and Walleye seminars throughout Michigan and Ohio, amongst many others!

Looking forward to seeing all of you, our friends, again in 2014!

Successful Walleye or Salmon fisherman everywhere from the Great Lakes to small rivers all understand current. This “ghost factor” is often misunderstood. During the warm weather months we use Fish Hawks, watch rigger cables, stare at changes in the bend of diver rods and sometimes just miss it all together. This “ghost factor” is slightly easier to understand and adapt to when ice fishing. Learning how to deal with it during the hardwater periods can help you catch more fish and possibly save your life.

I have personally been ice fishing for walleyes on 18’’ of ice, only to be sitting on no more than a foot by days end. No, it wasn’t above freezing, quite the contrary. Current can eat ice faster than a heat wave. Paying attention to this can help save your butt.

From a fishing standpoint it also can save your bacon. Current helps move fish, this can be a key unless you happen to be lucky enough to just drop a needle in a haystack and drill right on top of a small school. Inactive or lethargic walleyes don’t tend to move as much as when the current is moving on large bodies of water. Simply put, it helps put more fish, and active fish, under your hole in a day.

When fishing in heavy current you will need to slightly adapt your equipment. On Erie a ¼ or 3/8oz lure has been known to not hit bottom or at least be seen on your electronics or felt. The heavier lures (often to 1oz) will need a beefier rod to work them without feeling like your holding a Jell-O rod. A simple fix is to cut your rod down to the first guide or a couple inches and replace it with a fly tip. A medium rod becomes a medium heavy in a few minutes for a few dollars. This is also the reason I use hi-vis Blood Run Ice lines.

One simple tip when dealing with strong current is to drill three holes in a triangle. This will allow you to play musical chairs and keep moving around them as the current changes. Put your electronics transducer in the hole towards the direction the current is flowing. The stronger the current the larger you pre drill the triangle when you set up. The triangle keeps you from having to re-drill a hole when the current changes when you are in the middle of fishing. A simple concept for a less than simple topic.

Current is something that changes constantly and will keep you on your toes.

Capt. Ross Robertson

www.bigwaterfishing.com

The most durable and reliable connection for backer-to-copper is the Spro Swivel/heatshrink connection method.  Based upon feedback from our dealers who perform bulk line winding services, this method proves to be the most reliable connection method for most fishermen.

While we strongly advocate usage of a reverse Albright knot for our copper to backer connections just for time savings and simplicity, the swivel/heatshrink method is by far the most often used and maintenance free of any connection.

The correct swivel is the Spro Heavy Duty sized 3 #150lb swivel.   Simply take your copper end and slide down a 1-2″ piece of heatshrink tubing, large enough in size to cover the whole connection when finished.   Then, loop the copper end through one eye of the Spro swivel, then loop again, so you have approximately 2 inches of tag end copper remaining.

Take this tag end and haywire twist it to the main copper line below the spro swivel, make sure the twist is tight and compact.     Slide the heatshrink tube up over the haywire and up on to the bottom part of the Spro swivel, and apply heat.  Do not slide the heatshrink up past the halfway point of the swivel, as it will not allow the swivel to spin properly.

Your backer to swivel connection can be virtually any kind of knot, double cinch, etc.

Your copper to leader connections DO NOT need a swivel or heatshrink connection.   These knots do not receive the same amount of abuse and stress that the copper to backer knots receive.   A simple Albright knot here will suffice.

For most frequently asked questions, by far we receive the most regarding knots.    In this article we are going to focus strictly on trolling fly, swivel and leader connections highlighting differences in line material.   For a discussion on copper related knots, please visit this article for more information.

To get the basics out of the way, it is important to understand important differences between fishing line (standard mono), fluorocarbon line (mono with a fluorocarbon coating) and fluorocarbon leader (100% fluorocarbon material).   Standard monofilament lines are the least expensive of the bunch, and the most forgiving.   They have the best overall knot strength, but…they absorb water, break down in UV light and stretch.   Once fully extended, saturated, and chalky looking from UV breakdown…you are living on the edge from a strength perspective.    Tying knots with standard mono is pretty basic, with just about any knot of preference working well.   Little to no friction is built up, and generally knot strength in mono is close to the breaking strength of the line itself (rated on the packaging).

We are going to skip analyses of fluorocarbon coated mono for purposes of this article, other than to say knot tying is very similar to that of straight mono.  Lots of forgiveness, little heat friction build up, similar stretch and generally a good barrier to UV and water absorption.   Knot strength is again close to rated breaking strength.

Fluorocarbon leader material, in particular true leader material such as what we use for trolling fly leaders, diver leaders and copper leaders are a different animal.   Different manufacturers utilize different fluorocarbon resins to attribute different characteristics in their leader materials.   Some add stretch, some add abrasion resistance, some use lower quality resins just to offer a lower priced product.   In each situation, it is important to know what you are dealing with from a material perspective before you run off and start tying knots.   Tie the wrong knot in the wrong material and you are asking for potential trouble when you least need it.

The knock amongst all fluorocarbon leader material is low knot strength compared to mono.    On average, most fluorocarbon leader material using standard knots fall somewhere in the 60-70% range of rated breaking strength.   This means your 20lb fluorocarbon leader material is 30-40% weaker than 20lbs..inside the knot.    Blood Run Fluorocarbon Leader material, by virtue of the resins used, land in the 70-80% of rated breaking strength category.    No other manufacturer is higher than 80% strength inside the knot.   That is just a limitation of the material in general.

The advantages of the material itself, discussed in this article, far outweigh the disadvantage of weak knot strength…as long as you are tying the right knot.  You generally cannot just run off and tie any old knot, or your favorite mono knot, with fluorocarbon leader material and expect the same results.

Generally speaking, Blood Run Fluorocarbon Leader Material  is on the stiffer and harder end of the equation, using higher quality resins to stand up to its specific intent of which it was designed.    There is no doubt that the “whip” factor of trolling flies and meat rigs significantly adds to the attraction of those presentations, and a stiffer leader material is the perfect leader for this application.    Because of the “hard” feel to the line, which results in outstanding abrasion resistance, careful consideration must be taken when tying knots to ensure the highest knot strength that you can get.

Remember, a hard fluorocarbon leader material when cinched down, will create friction.   Friction weakens the leader, and will cause eventual failure.   Over 90% of fluorocarbon leader failures occur within the knot.   It is very important to “slightly” lube the material as you cinch down your knots.   Over lubing will cause the knot to “slip” when put under stress…leaving you with the proverbial “pigtail” in your hand after you lose your last fish in a tournament.   Under lubing your knot will create too much heat and friction which will cause the knot to fail sooner than expected.

The knot you decide to use also plays a large role in the ultimate strength of the leader.   Different knots are used in different applications, and for the majority of us fishing salmon, we are looking at leader in the 20lb to 50lb test range.   Realistically, anything larger would require a crimp rather than a knot.

As testing has concluded, probably the most durable knot when considering high knot strength (not rated line breaking strength) would be the San Diego Jam Knot.   It is a knot rarely mentioned, but used frequently in saltwater.   Closely examining the construction of the knot, we can see that it is a “low friction” knot which would respond well to lubrication while still allowing for a tight cinch.    We have not spent alot of time using this knot in our application for salmon, mostly because we feel we have an equally strong and simple knot that works in all situations.

Enter the modified cinch knot.   Again, using a series of “wraps” and a tag end running through a loop, it responds well to lubrication and allows for a higher rated knot strength compared to other favored knots such as Palomars, etc.

In addition, there is a unique feature to this knot that most are unaware of, but plays a HUGE role in fishing with trolling flies, and that is the double loop.   The double loop on the eye of the hook, allows the hook to “hang straight” in most trolling situations, and is less likely to become cocked off to one side or another by side swipes from a fish.    Why is that important?   Try and catch a fish on a trolling fly with your hook offset and see how many fish you will catch….zero!   If the hook does become offset after landing a fish, it is a simple swing back to center and you are back in business with a straight hanging hook.    Single loop knots, like the San Diego jam, will allow the hook to wander inside of the loop and slip rather easily and become offset.   This is the same for all other knots with a single loop through the eye of the hook.

What does this mean?   When you keep getting knock offs on your flies, it means fish are swiping at it and not getting the hooks jammed into their jaws because the hook is offset.   Or, it means you are just flat out not getting bit because the action of your fly is wrong because of the offset hook.  One more time..your hooks MUST hang straight on trolling flies and meat rigs in order to have the proper action, and best hook setting performance.   Period.

Below are some pictures and descriptions describing the construction of the knot, and various applications for it’s usage for salmon fishing.

Step one, two loops through the eye of the hook or swivel.

Step two, a series of wraps up the mainline and then pull the tag end through the original loop created at the hook. 20lb test use 6-7 wraps, 30lb test use 5 wraps, 40lb test use 4 wraps, 50lb test use 3 wraps. 40lb and 50lb test you should use pliers to pull the tag end down tight through the loop before you trim.

Step three, finished product side profile.  This example utilized only 3 wraps, which is minimum amount of wraps to be used, and only for 50lb test.

Meat Rig Fluorocarbon Leader Pink Tint just before cinch down. 4 wraps on a 1/0 treble.

Example of “offset” knot after a fish was landed, or was missed. Typically, all coho and many kings will hit a fly or meat rig from the rear quarter, causing the knot to slip off the top of the eye of the hook. This must be re-aligned before sending back into the water, or, the rig will not troll properly and will result in continued missed hits.

Blood Run Meat Rig Leader Material Pink Tint 4 wraps cinched down finished product. Notice beads jammed down on top of knot to assist in keeping the knot “straight” off the top of the hook.

3 wraps modified cinch knot prior to pulling down on tag end with pliers. Notice space within the double wrap on the hook.

50lb Fluorocarbon Leader cinched down properly (3 wraps) pliers on the tag end to close the spacing between the double loop on the top of the hook eye. This will ensure proper hook trailing behind the fly or meat rig, and result in better hook up ratios.

7 wrap modified cinch knot using Blood Run Tournament monofilament from downrigger rod to flasher ball bearing swivel. Smaller diameter line allows for up to 6-7 wraps in the knot.

7 wrap modified cinch knot leader material to end of diver. Can be used with snubber as well.

Single loop Surgeon’s knot in end of trolling fly or meat rig is all that is needed to connect to swivel at flasher.

Single Loop Surgeons Knot connects meat rig or trolling fly to flasher swivel. Can be easily removed to swap out flies behind flashers.

Single loop Surgeon Knot to connect diver leader to diver. Can be used with or without snubber. Only used with 30lb or 40lb fluorocarbon leader on divers.  20lb test diver leaders (not advised) should use the 7 wrap modified cinch knot.

This is the first of a multi-part series highlighting tournament recap’s and insider info from Blood Run Tackle Pro Staff teams from 2013.   Throughout the next 8 weeks, we will feature team profiles and tournament insights from top competing teams around the Great Lakes.

The first edition comes from our home state of Michigan, featuring Capt Tony Hamm and the crew from Hammbone.   Anyone who fishes the Tournament Trail knows Tony and the guys as being formidable opponents on the 333 and northern Lake Michigan tournament circuit.

This past fall we caught up with Capt Tony and picked his brain about a few of the teams events last year which ended with an unprecedented sea of destruction on the tournament trail.   Team Hammbone not only took the 333 First Place (after taking best overall 333 two years ago), but racked up an impressive slew of top finishes against the best teams from around Lake Michigan.

2013 started off with a 3rd place Pro finish in St Joseph, 8th place Pro in the Budweiser Manistee, 1st Place 333 in Ludington, 3rd Place Pro in Manistee Splash (plus Big Fish 1st 333), 6th place Pro in Frankfort and finally a 2nd place overall in the 333 Monster Mania Shootout.

The Manistee Splash Big Fish was the story of the year for Team Hammbone, with a 33lb brute slamming a high wire diver (Blood Run 30lb Stainless).   Capt Tony states “Wire divers are by far and away the best tool we have, particularly on big kings.   Maybe because of the distance out and back from the boat or perhaps vibration.”   And we tend to agree..

2013 no doubt was the year of big kings certainly for Lake Michigan, but also on Lake Ontario.   Every 30lb+ King taken by Blood Run Pro Staff team members on both lakes were taken on wire divers.   All but one of them came on the high wire diver.   Capt Tom Pataska of Lucky Lyle charters in Kenosha took a 30lb+ on Blood Run Stainless on a low wire diver.   Capt Brian Garrett of Tall Tails sportfishing on Lake Ontario took his 30lb plus on a high wire diver, along with the guys from Profishient Charters in Holland with multiple 30lb+ kings on Blood Run high wire divers, amongst other Pro Staffers.

Capt Tony feels that diver colors do matter, despite pulling slightly longer fluorocarbon leaders (Blood Run 30lb Fluoro at 15′-17′), with favorites being metallic colors if possible.   Snubbers are also utilized by Team Hammbone.

This particular fish not only pushed the team into 3rd overall pro for the event, but also took 1st in the 333 event for that tournament.    Fishing was tough that weekend, noted the Captain, after having pre-fished two locations for 4 days previously the confidence level was tenuous at best.   On day one, the first 2.5 hours resulted in one bite, forcing the team to pull and make a 1 hour run down to Ludington which ended up keeping the team in the mix at 5th place after the first session.

The second day run back down to Ludington was a no brainer for the crew, and when the high wire diver took off with the 33lb bruiser dragging a Mountain Dew Spin Doctor in its mouth, they knew they had a shot.

A few other teams made big runs, notably up to the islands and pulled some big numbers, but ultimately the guys hung on for the win…and that special fish was the dagger that did it.

Congratulations to another big season by Capt Tony and his able crew of Craig Coleman, Dick Coleman, Steve Miller and Dan VanDyke.    The boys know how to get it done and will continue to be a strong contender in years to come.    Glad we don’t have to fish against them!